Portuguese in Sintra

Chef Luis Santos shakes up Sintra's culinary scene with his modern upgrades to Portuguese cuisine, served amid the muted greys and greens of his synchronic dining room. INcomum quickly establishes itself as the anti-traditional choice among serious foodies, first by dangling an unbeatable €11 three-course-lunch carrot, then by letting the food seal the deal.

The Swiss-trained chef does memorable things with chestnuts, and the seasonally changing menu isn't afraid to buck convention (duck magret with figs, cocoa and carrot purée, for example). Not much emerges from his kitchen that's underwhelming. Don't miss the INcomum Wine Gallery, either. A holiday highlight.