Don't miss dinner at this cool guesthouse in the maze of alleyways up from the Ribeira, with a stylishly rough-around-the-edges look and delicious small plates being churned out of the tiny kitchen. Reserve ahead, especially on weekends. There are six lovely apartments (up to three people €75 to €120, up to six people €145 to €200) upstairs, featuring blond wood and kitchenettes.