Ribeira brims with terrific places to eat: from patisseries, slow-food delis and vegetarian restaurants to chic bistros putting a contemporary riff on Portuguese favourites and rustic taverns pairing petiscos with gutsy wines. Many have alfresco seating. Down by the river, it's firmly tourist terrain – Cais da Ribeira cashes in on its views, so you’ll often pay over the odds for food that’s mediocre at best.