Inside the city walls are faded baroque mansions and relics of the town’s textile-manufacturing heyday – wool was the mainstay in the 18th century, cork in the 19th century and tapestries in the 20th. Even today Portalegre stays true to its legacy of natty threads – the Portalegre Tapestry Factory still produces extraordinary tapestries of artworks by famous modern artists, and there’s a fabulous museum showcasing the work.

The town’s former glory is recorded in stone: faded 17th-century baroque town houses and mansions dot Rua 19 de Junho to the southeast.