Top choice portuguese in Alfama, Castelo & Graça

A legend in the making, 'Aunt' Natércia and her downright delicious Portuguese home cooking is a tough ticket: there are but a mere six tables and they fill up fast. She'll talk your ear off (and doesn't mince words – some have been rubbed the wrong way) while you devour her excellent take on the classics. Reservations are essential (cash only).

If you do manage to get a seat, you're in for a treat, especially with the bacalhau com nata (shredded codfish with béchamel, served au gratin) or bacalhau à Brás (shredded codfish with eggs and potatoes) or, well, anything you else you might order. President Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa approved – his photo is on the wall.