Bustling Pinóquio is easy to miss as it's tucked into a praça corner partially obstructed by a souvenir kiosk. Dressed in white tablecloths against pea-green walls, it's distinctly old school, with indomitable waiters slinging a stunning slew of classic dishes: arroz de pato (duck rice), seafood feijoada, arroz de bacalhau (codfish rice), and pork chops with almonds and coriander.
Ask in-the-know Portuguese foodies about their favourite home-grown restaurant and their nose will be growing if they don't say Pinóquio. Prices are higher here, but they're worth it. Reserve a table.