Seafood in Príncipe Real, Santos & Estrela

Diogo Noronha's top-end, sustainable seafooder takes a much-needed creative approach, bucking tradition in favour of challenging and surprising – if pricey – takes on Lisbon's culinary seascape. The €65 tasting menu left us unmoved but then also elated, with the grilled turbot with Hokkaido and butternut pumpkins, Fiorina apple, black truffle and black trumpets, pickled mustard seeds and argan oil.

Pastry chef Claiton Ferreira's Santo Domingo 70% origin chocolate with Madeira bananas and black sesame also stood out. Noronha's pedigree (Casa de Pasto, Rio Maravilha) is strong, so going 'fishing' here for an innovative night of seafood – hold the bacalhau – is a good bet.