in Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré

The beauty set consistently stomps around the monochrome hexagonal floor and massive, glass-encased wine cellar at Pap’Açorda's dazzling new 800-sq-metre space inside Mercado da Ribeira. Traditional dishes here have a lengthy list of high-profile fans, so when our house-speciality açorda (bread and seafood stew) made little impression it caught us by surprise. That rich chocolate mousse, however…