Loco

Portuguese in Príncipe Real, Santos & Estrela

In the shadow of the Basílica da Estrela, Lisbon's latest hot table comes courtesy of chef Alexandre Silva, whose bold and modern take on Portuguese cuisine taps both tradition and travel on its way to a personality-rich gastronomic adventure. It offers a daily-changing, description-free tasting menu (you choose 18 'moments' with or without a cheese option), each steeped in sustainability and seasonality.

Each 'moment' is unexpected and unpredictable – petit fours served on embroidery hoops, dangling Italian flatbread, spoon-fed tuna with lemon and quinoa, for example. The gimmicks don't always work, but when they do, hold on to your forks! Count the extraordinary sea bass with seaweed and tapioca, or duck with apple, cabbage and crunchy potato among the latter.