Boi Cavalo

Portuguese in Alfama, Castelo & Graça

Daring and polarising Boi Cavalo challenges diners with its weekly changing, seasonally inspired tasting menus (no à la carte) from its open kitchen, where chefs Hugo Brito and Pedro Duarte aren't afraid to toss out the playbook on Portuguese cooking. The six-course, slowly delivered menu (plus extras) sometimes hits, sometimes misses, but always surprises.

We loved the duck black pudding with kimchi wrapped in kale and the black scabbardfish with cuttlefish tempura and tamago, but the Iberian pork with dehydrated buttermilk and trout roe and the potato with bulhão pato sauce and pork jowl failed to wow. Detractors say that the chefs care more about shock and awe than guest satisfaction, but either way, you're walking out of your evening with a memory.