It’s a miracle that this baroque church still stands, having barely survived the 1755 earthquake, then fire in 1959. Dating to 1241, its sea of tea lights illuminates gashed pillars, battered walls and ethereal sculptures in its musty, yet enchanting, interior. Note the Star of David memorial outside marking the spot of a bloody anti-Semitic massacre in 1506.

The square is a popular hang-out for Lisbon’s African community.