Although it hardly looks the part, peaceful Cabril – set with its outlying hamlets in a wide, fertile bowl backed by soaring peaks – is the administrative centre of Portugal’s biggest freguesia (parish), stretching up to the Spanish border. Your best reference point is Largo do Cruzeiro, with its old pelourinho. To one side is the squat but stately Igreja de São Lourenço, said to have been moved five centuries ago, brick by brick, by villagers of nearby São Lourenço.
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