Walking Tour: Old & New Praga

  • Start Park Praski tram stop
  • End Dworzec Wileński metro station
  • Length 3km; two to three hours

Start by taking a wander around Park Praski to find its Giraffe sculpture and to view the three bears living in the concrete pit. Across the road rise up the twin 75m spires of the neo-Gothic St Michael & St Florian Cathedral. Walk down ul Floriańska to the Praga Courtyard Band Monument honouring the five-piece bands who played in tenement courtyards before WWII. Opposite, famous figures from the world of Polish cinema are carved in stone on the facade of the Kino Praha. This area was once the heart of Jewish Praga – a fragment remains at the Former Mikveh, the bathhouse used by women for monthly ritual cleansing.

Cross ul Targowa and continue along ul Ząbkowska, a partly cobblestoned street dotted with many convivial places to eat and drink, including Coś na ZĄBkowskiej. In 2018 this building was entirely covered in foil, an artwork by Piotr Janowski. Another major transformation has been made at nearby Koneser, where the handsome 19th-century brick buildings that were once a vodka factory are now home to offices, shops, restaurants and bars. If you have time, do a tour of the interactive vodka museum.

Return to ul Targowa and head north in the direction of the Orthodox St Mary Magdalene Cathedral. The gritty streets northeast of here have been colonised by artist studios and brightened up with several impressive street-art murals. A particularly colourful courtyard is that at ul 11 Listopada 22, where you'll find the nightclub trio Chmury, Hydrozagadka and Skład Butelek. On ul Środkowa look up to see a couple of brawling gents in 18th-century frock coats and breeches in Conor Harrington's Warsaw Fight Club Mural. Next, search out the Eastern Warsaw Mural of a youth in a hoodie by Sebas Velasco and the nearby Playground Mural by Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic.

To view art you can hang on your own walls, drop into Galeria Stalowa and Pragaleria as you make your way back towards the metro station at Dworzec Wileński.