Of all Polish cities, you’ll eat best in Warsaw, with both hearty Polish cuisine and a growing selection of international cuisines.

The largest concentration of eateries is on and around Krakowskie Przedmieście and Nowy Świat and south of al Jerozolimskie. The Old Town generally houses expensive tourist traps, but there are a few quality spots if you look around.

More Than Milk

Capitalism has been rough on Warsaw’s milk bars (bar mleczny), those dirt-cheap, canteenlike holdovers from communist times where hearty Polish meals – many vegetarian or dairy-based, hence the name – are dished out from bains-marie to appreciative, hungry customers. Though their ranks have thinned since their glory days, there are several survivors around town, popular with Poles as much as with visitors.