There’s good kitsch and there’s bad kitsch, and at Mandragora, it’s all good. Sure, 'Hava Nagila' is playing amidst the lace tablecloths, knick-knacks and photos of old Lublin, but in the romantic Rynek setting it works wonderfully. The food is heartily Jewish, from roast duck with tzimmes (stewed carrots and dried fruit) to salt beef. Service is engagingly delightful.
The restaurant also rents rooms at a renovated tenement house nearby. Stylishly white singles and doubles cost 200zł and 300zł.