Fusion in Gdańsk

Occupying a red-brick corner of the Philharmonia building facing the Targ Rybny across the river, the cooks here dabble in Heston Blumenthal–style molecular cuisine to admirable effect. If you came to Pomerania to glut out on braised flesh and ale, then the finicky creations here will disappoint with their finesse, attention to detail and obsessive focus on taste.