Tromba Rija

Estremadura & Ribatejo


This recent Leiria transplant occupies an old horse stable on a farm near Centro, where it serves an extensive – if pricey – 'Flavours of Portugal' buffet (fairly uncommon in Portugal). Start with eight or so cheeses and a vast salad and starter spread before moving onto a few select hot dishes per day (pork ribs, duck confit, salted cod etc).

Sometimes the presentations are off-putting (codfish dunked in a vat of olive oil, for example) but it all tastes better than it looks and it's nice to watch them transform the main course spread into a well-presented plate (they plate the main courses, not you). Desserts, digestifs, dried fruits and nuts and port are included, but wine and other standard drinks are not. Do not follow Google Maps here – you'll end up lost (and walking here isn't recommended – it involves some dangerous motorway manoeuvring).


Lonely Planet's must-see attractions

Nearby Estremadura & Ribatejo attractions

1. Mosteiro de Santa Maria da Vitória

0.15 MILES

The extraordinary monastery of Batalha was built to commemorate the 1385 Battle of Aljubarrota (fought just south of here). Most of the monument was…

2. MCCB

0.21 MILES

This modern, award-winning municipal museum in the centre of town is well worth the visit, taking you through the prehistory and history of the region,…

4. Castelo de Porto de Mós

3.8 MILES

The green-towered castle was originally a Moorish stronghold. Conquered definitively in 1148 by Dom Afonso Henriques, it was largely rebuilt in 1450 and…

5. Estrada Romana

4.54 MILES

About 15 minutes northeast of Porto de Mós by car (and signed from near the castle), a section of ancient Roman road has been converted into a walking…

6. Museu do Moinho de Papel

5.88 MILES

Located by the river and near the new Museu de Leiria (and part of the admission price), the Moinho do Papel was Portugal's first paper mill to be moved…

7. Museu de Leiria

5.94 MILES

Opened in November 2015, this lovely museum celebrates Leiria and its region. Housed in the former Santo Agostinho Convent, the exhibits span everything…