With just 24 counter seats locked down behind an unmarked door, Rōnin has all the hallmarks of a coveted Soho dining spot before you've even seen the daily changing menu. Plates – all delicious and inventive – are organised by raw, smaller and bigger, and include revelations like succulent black-pilsner-battered smoked tilefish and crunchy palm-sized crabs with yuzu and sesame.
Ask the staff to recommend sake or shochu from the extensive menu to pair with your meal; they really know their stuff.
