Tourism is still a minor blip for most of Siargao. Fishing and farming determine daily rhythms, so exploring this region is an opportunity to experience everyday coastal and rural life. On the road north to the eastern side of the island you pass through barangay Pilar, which is largely built on stilts over mangrove flats. Not far north are the white-sand beach and swimming holes at Magpupungko. The lovely little town of Burgos has a crescent-shaped beach and light-blue waters, and the waves here and in nearby Pacifico are excellent. Locals might be willing to let you tag along on fishing trips.
On the western side of Siargao, around 10km from the airport, Del Carmen is the gateway for highly recommended boat trips through the mangrove swamps of Caob and to picturesque Sugba Lagoon (these days, you might have to share the lagoon with boatloads of other tourists).