With international tourists still in the minority in these parts, midrange and budget hotels rule. Cajamarca, and to a lesser extent Chachapoyas, have a sprinkling of higher-end places in old colonial houses, plus there's a small contingent of rural lodges located within striking distance of some of the region's spectacular sights.
Food in the Northern Highlands is a mixed bag, lacking the general high quality of Lima and Arequipa. Cities such as Cajamarca and Chachapoyas have a handful of decent restaurants plus some more recently established cafes and pizzerias. Small rural villages are less well-served: bank on unadorned scruffy abodes where you'll get a S8 menú del día from whatever's in the pot.