This modern top-floor cafe has space and light in spades, comfy lounges, art, photos, crackling fireplace, books and groovy tunes – it’s the ultimate South American traveler hangout and meeting spot. You can get breakfast anytime (Belgian waffles, huevos rancheros), snacks you miss (nachos). It's the best place in town for information about trekking in the area.

American owner Chris is the go-to java junkie in the Cordilleras and roasts his own organic beans here. He was responsible for first bringing excellent brew to town in 1997 – he showed up a year earlier and had to resort to using a rock to smash organic beans he'd brought from Alaska, straining it through a bandanna for his morning jolt. Seriously.