This tiny place sits secluded in a walled garden where the legend of chef don Victor is carried on by his widow and son, Wen. It’s not cheap, but it’s fresh and excellent. The specialty is steamed whole fish in sauce, which is big enough to serve three. Come early – it closes once the fresh fish runs out.
The menu is decided each morning when local fishermen knock on the door shouting, ‘Hey Chinese! The catch of the day is…’ Wen, the only Chinese-Peruvian restaurateur in town, makes just two dishes with whatever’s fresh that day: ceviche and steamed fish (with fillets available for solo diners). He offers six sauces, but go for the traditional, sharply colored, wildly flavorful criollo sauce or the delicate pecan option.