Lurín is a working-class enclave 50km south of Central Lima on the Panamericana. At its southern edge, crafts collective Ichimay Wari has its studios. Here, talented artisans from Ayacucho produce traditional retablos (religious dioramas), pottery, Andean-style Christmas decorations and the colorful clay trees known as arbolitos de la vida (trees of life). Your best bet is to make an appointment 24 hours in advance to tour individual studios and meet the artisans.
A taxi from Lima costs around S120 round-trip. By bus from the Puente Benavides or Puente Primavera, take one headed to Lurín (S5), San Bartolo or San Miguel. Get off at the main stoplight in Lurín. From there, hail a mototaxi (motorcycle taxi) and ask them to take you south to the Barrio Artesano. Parts of Lurín can get rough; take taxis and keep your cameras stowed.