Hunker down. If you want to truly ‘get’ Arequipa, you have some serious food sampling to enjoy. Start with the basics: rocoto relleno and chupe de camarones and work up to the stuff you’ll never find east of the Amazon (at least on a dinner plate) – guinea pig, anyone? Trendy upscale restaurants line Calle San Francisco north of the Plaza de Armas, while touristy outdoor cafes huddle together on Pasaje Catedral, behind the cathedral and away from the plaza.