Bunk down in the spacious Panatalis Dodor Beach Peles, which is a good place to see community life. It's run by Demas Kavavu, who's an interesting character who knows anything and everything on Malagan culture. The three rooms are very simple but overlook the beach, with Tabar Island looming on the horizon.
The weak points are the toilets (pit) and the showers (non-existent; prepare to bathe in the river). There's a nice wave here in surf season (November to March).