Aside from interacting with Emberá villagers, the highlight here is taking a guided two-hour walk to a harpy-eagle nest (included if staying the night). The walk winds through lush secondary forest brimming with tropical birds and insects; be prepared to ford a dozen streams. Bring a camera, as harpy eagles are easily photographed with a telephoto lens. On the return from this hot and sweaty hike you'll be rewarded with a splash in a large crystal-clear pool created by a waterfall.
Local guides will happily take you on a more ambitious hike (US$15, 2½ hours) to the Casa de la Bruja (Witch's House), the peak known as Tulivieja locally.