AJ&K’s capital was just 25km from the epicentre of the devastating 2005 earthquake and the city is still recovering, with reconstruction and temporary shelter still much in evidence. Muzaffarabad used to be just another stop on the road to Srinagar – but a strategic one, at the confluence of the Neelam and Jhelum Rivers. Its sole tourist attraction is a 17th-century fort built by the town’s founder, a chief of the...
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