Devoted to Norwegian home cooking, and with a delightfully informal ambience, Pingvinen is the old favourite of everyone in Bergen. They come for meals their mothers and grandparents used to cook, and although the menu changes regularly, there'll be at least one of the following: fish-cake sandwiches, reindeer, fish pie, whale, salmon, lamb shank and raspeballer (sometimes called komle) – west-coast potato dumplings.

The kitchen usually closes around 9pm, whereafter there are snacks and kicking on – it does double duty as a popular late-night bar.