Introduction

Though just a few miles from the DMZ and the world’s most concentrated build-up of military forces, Kaesong (개성) is a fairly relaxed place just off the Reunification Hwy from Pyongyang. The city may boast an impressive 12 Unesco World Heritage sites, but is dominated by massive statues of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il atop a large hill.

Once the capital of the Koryo dynasty, Kaesong has an interesting old quarter as well as the country’s most atmospheric hotel, but tours rarely spend much time here. Having seen the DMZ, you'll usually be billeted at the hotel for the night before returning to Pyongyang, although a fascinating walk through the town with your guides to the top of the hill is usually possible.