Abeokuta is a remarkable place, backed by the huge Olumo Rock. Grand but dishevelled Brazilian and Cuban mansions built by returned slaves sit alongside basic shacks with hand-painted signs, historic mosques and churches and the rounded mass of the rocks, creating an unforgettable streetscape.
Located about 100km north of Lagos, Abeokuta has its own very strong cultural identity. It is well known as the birthplace of many famous Nigerians, notably former president Obasanjo, Afrobeat legend Fela Kuti and writer Wole Soyinka. Soyinka's autobiography, Aké, is a vivid depiction of a childhood spent here.
It’s a poor town, unused to visitors except those visiting the rock, and while wandering around is fascinating, you’ll feel conspicuous.