Isla de Ometepe’s 78km main road runs in a rough barbell shape, circling each volcano and running along the northern shore of the isthmus between them. The Concepción side of the island is more developed, and the major towns of Moyogalpa and Altagracia are connected by a paved road.

Moyogalpa is the island's largest and busiest town: you’ll find the majority of services for tourists here. Altagracia is the only other real population center and is a smaller, much more laid-back and less-touristed place. That said, there’s not much reason to come here, except to check out the statues and museum.

Playa Santo Domingo is the most popular lodging spot on the isthmus; the road splits upon arriving on the less-developed Volcán Maderas side of the island, going right to Mérida and the San Ramón waterfall, and left to Balgüe, a backpacker hot spot where new accommodations keep popping up.