There’s very little in the hectic border town of Birganj to suggest that you’re not in India. As the main transit point for freight between India and Nepal, the town is mobbed by trucks, deafened by car horns and jostled by rickshaws. It is most commonly visited by travellers crossing to/from Kolkata. Nevertheless, it is cleaner and friendlier than one might expect.
The amazing, multitiered and beautifully restored clock tower on the main road, so at odds with everything around it, serves as a useful landmark. From here it is east to the bus station, and south to the town centre and Indian border. A lively bazaar extends along the main road near Mahabirsthan Chowk and offers good shopping for local clothing.