Balthali is a paradisiacal valley nestled amid forested hills, its floor coated with golf-course-green rice paddies whose swirling contours form a work of art. The village of the same name has no centre, being strung out along the road and elsewhere. The misty mornings here are a particular delight, their peace broken only by the crowing of roosters far and wide. This is a largely undiscovered destination. You'll feel like you have gone back 50 years.