For total cultural immersion, head to this authentic but rough-around-the edges place in Makuti Town, the scruffy neighbourhood of reed houses where the locals live. It has an eight-bed dorm and several small, dark rooms with fan in a tiny garden behind the family house. All beds have nets.
There are also basic cooking facilities, a laundry service and a fridge. Meals can be arranged with notice. Take the first left after passing the green mosque (to your right), then turn left again and you'll see the house (with sign) on the left.