The whitewashed medina of Tetouan is an authentic time machine and is very traveller-friendly, with moped-free lanes, few street hustlers, amiable residents and a general lack of congestion, particularly in the large residential areas. In the commercial spaces, the sights and sounds of traditional life are everywhere: craftsmen pound brass, silk merchants offer thousands of spools of multicoloured thread and bakers tend the public ovens. There are dedicated souqs for carpentry, leather and jewellery. There are some 35 mosques as well, of which the Grande Mosquée and Saïda Mosque, both northeast of Place Hassan II, are the most impressive, although non-Muslims are not allowed to enter. If you get lost, a few dirhams in local hands will get you to any doorstep.
The medina is bordered to the south by the pretty Lovers Park, a pleasant escape. The entrance to the medina is off the grand Place Hassan II, which faces the Royal Palace.
Take in the Ensanche by walking along Ave Mohammed V from Place Al Jala to Place Moulayel-Mehdi. The broad boulevard is lined with bright white Spanish colonial architecture, with a few art-deco elements, reminiscent of styles found elsewhere (eg in Casablanca and Larache) with restoration funded by the Andalusian government. You’ll find hotels, banks and places to eat here.