The heart of the medina is around Place El Hedim and the monumental gateway of Bab El Mansour. Behind the gate lies Moulay Ismail’s imperial city. The narrow streets of the old mellah are in the west of the medina – look for the old balconied houses so distinctive of the Jewish quarter.
The easiest route into the medina's souqs is through the arch to the left of the Dar Jamaï Museum on the north side of Place El Hedim. Plunge in and head northwards, and you’ll quickly find yourself amid souvenir stalls and carpet shops.