Kasbah & Mellah

It may not be Marrakesh's oldest palace, but Bahia is definitely one of the city's most eye-popping sights. Built by Grand Vizier Si Moussa in the 1860s, it was later expanded and embellished from 1894 to 1900 by his son and successor Abu ‘Bou’ Ahmed. The salons of both the petit riad and grand riad host intricate marquetry and zouak (painted wood) ceilings, but the Cour d'Honneur, or Grand Cour, with its 1500 sq m floor of Italian Carrara marble, is the undisputed highlight.

Saadian Sultan Ahmed Al Mansour Ed Dahbi spared no expense on his tomb, importing Italian Carrara marble and gilding honeycomb muqarnas (decorative plasterwork) with pure gold to make the Chamber of 12 Pillars a suitably glorious mausoleum. Al Mansour died in splendour in 1603, but a few decades later, Alaouite Sultan Moulay Ismail walled up the Saadian Tombs to keep his predecessors out of sight and mind. It was the French who opened them up again in 1917.

Only a couple of synagogues in the Mellah are still used by Marrakesh's dwindling Jewish community, including this one, which doubles as an interesting museum of Jewish life in Morocco. It was originally built in 1492 by Jews expelled from Spain, but its blue-and-white interior is a much later iteration. The synagogue is on the right-hand side of the pretty internal courtyard – note the Star of David motif in zellige (colourful geometric mosaic tilework).

Little sister to the Fez original, Cafe Clock is housed in an old school with sunset views over the Kasbah from its rooftop. The food, including vegie options like quiche and seasonal couscous, is decent – tourists delight in the signature camel burger. However, its popularity rests on its packed calendar of cultural performances, which also attracts many young Marrakshis.

Si Said, the original owner of this 19th-century medina mansion, a monument to Moroccan mâalem (master artisans), was brother to Grand Vizier Bou Ahmed, who lived at Bahia Palace. It is now home to the well-presented National Museum of Weaving and Carpets, which sends visitors on a journey through the history and social significance of the many different forms of Moroccan carpet-making, from rural weavings to urban looms. Architectural highlights include the spectacularly decorated 1st-floor wedding chamber and peaceful riad garden.