Follow the basket bubble-lamps to lunch on top of the souqs in a mudbrick bhou (booth) off Rue Dar el-Bacha. Check the chalkboard for daily à la carte specials, such as dinner-sized Caesar salads, traditional pigeon pastilla, and vegetarian aubergine pasta with thyme. Save room for house-specialty chocolate pastilla: layers of warqa pastry, apricots, prunes and almonds smothered in chocolate. Reserve ahead in high season; cards accepted; no alcohol.