Grilled meat and tajines as far as the eye can see! Plus Moroccan specialities of snail soup, sheep's brains and skewered hearts for the more adventurous gourmet. Eating amid the mayhem of the Djemaa food stalls at least once in your trip is not to be missed. Always go for the busiest stalls as they'll have the freshest meat.
The whole shebang kicks off at about 4.30pm when teams of men descend on the square hauling gas canisters by the cartload. Within an hour 100 small restaurants are up and running with touts waving menus and urging passers-by to note the cleanliness of their grills and the freshness of their meat, produce and cooking oil. Despite alarmist warnings, your stomach should be fine if you use your bread instead of rinsed utensils and stick to bottled water.