This pancake flat city is good for keen cyclists. You'll need to keep your wits about you though when out on the main roads. If you want to join the locals navigating the crowds, motorcycles and donkey-carts in the medina by bike, do as the Marrakshi cyclists do and make good use of your bell in the alleys, to let pedestrians know you're behind them.
Local buses are run by Alsa. There's a semi-helpful route map on Alsa's website. Buses heading for the ville nouvelle stop at Pl de Foucauld in front of Djemaa El Fna. Services start around 6am and finish between 9.30pm and 10pm with buses on most routes running every 15 to 20 minutes.
Key bus lines include the following:
Bus 1 Kasbah–Guéliz–Bab Doukkala (via Djemaa El Fna and Ave Mohammed V)
Bus 8 & 10 Djemaa El Fna–train station
Bus 11 Bab Doukkala–Djemaa El Fna–Menara Gardens
Bus 12 Jardin Majorelle–Bab Doukkala–Hivernage
Bus 16 Djemaa El Fna–Bab Doukkala–Guéliz–northwest suburbs
These green horse-drawn carriages congregate at Pl de Foucauld next to the Djemaa El Fna. They’re a pleasant way to get around, if you avoid the rush hours (8am, noon and 5.30pm to 7.30pm). State-fixed rates of Dh120 per hour apply (rates are posted inside the carriage). Expect a tour of the ramparts to take 1½ hours.
Animal welfare charity SPANA (www.spana.org) works with Marrakesh's calèche drivers, monitoring horse welfare and maintaining water troughs along popular carriage routes.
Car & Motorcycle
If your accommodation is in the medina, there are guarded car parks on Rue Fatima Zohra (near Djemaa El Fna), Rue Riad Zitoun El Jedid (near Bahia Palace) and Rue Abbes Sebti (behind the Koutoubia Mosque). In Guéliz there's a secure underground car park on Av Mohammed V, opposite the post office. Expect to pay Dh20/40 during the day/24 hours.
In Guéliz some roads have parking meters (Dh2 per hour). If you find street parking without a meter, a guardian will expect a Dh10 tip for keeping an eye on your car; look for the guy in the blue coat and pay your tip afterwards.
Hiring a Car
Local car-rental companies often offer more competitive deals than international operators, with quoted rates starting at around Dh350 per day with air-con and unlimited mileage. For 4WD rentals, count on Dh950 to Dh1300 per day with minimal insurance; the top end of the range reflects the largest vehicles, which can carry up to seven people. You should be able to negotiate a 10% to 20% discount in the low season (late October to mid-December and mid-January to the end of February).
A car with a driver starts at an additional Dh150 per day within Marrakesh and Dh200 per day for excursions outside Marrakesh.
Car Hire Companies
If you’re feeling brave and/or foolhardy, you might join the fray on a scooter or motorcycle. Rentals are available from Marrakech Roues.
Metered rates for the city's beige petits taxis around town are between Dh8 and Dh20 with a Dh10 surcharge at night. Many drivers will insist their meter is 'broken' and will quote higher prices, particularly taxis waiting at stands that get a lot of tourist business (the airport, train station, Djemaa El Fna and Jardin Majorelle are notorious for this). You can usually get a metered rate – or at least, a better quoted price – by flagging a taxi down from the street.
If your party numbers more than three, you must take a grand taxi, which requires negotiation.
There is no city train network in Marrakesh
Compact and flat, Marrakesh was made for walking. The medina's skinny maze of souqs and alleys can only be explored on foot and central Guéliz is only a 20- to 25-minute stroll from Djemaa El Fna.