Djemaa El Fna & Southern Central Medina

Everywhere you look in Marrakesh’s main square (pronounced 'jema' – the 'd' is silent), you’ll discover drama in progress. The hoopla and halqa (street theatre) have been non-stop here since the 11th century. Until a few decades ago, it hosted a daily food market for mountain traders. Now the whine of snake-charmer pungi flutes hits full throttle by mid-morning, and the show doesn't really kick off until sunset when restaurants fire up their grills, cueing musicians to tune up their instruments.

Five times a day, one voice rises above the Djemaa din as the muezzin calls the faithful to prayer from the Koutoubia Mosque's minaret. The tower is a monumental cheat sheet of Moorish ornament: scalloped keystone arches, jagged merlon crenellations and mathematically pleasing proportions; the square design is an Amazigh trademark. This 12th-century 75m-high tower was the prototype for the Giralda in Seville, Spain. In the 19th century, booksellers clustered around its base – hence the name, from kutubiyyin (booksellers).

Grilled meat and tajines as far as the eye can see, plus snail soup, sheep's brains and skewered hearts: eating amid the mayhem of the Djemaa food stalls is not to be missed. Follow the locals to find the stalls with the freshest produce. Our recommendations are number 14 for fried fish and number 1 for brochettes (kebabs) and tajines.

The front terraces of the old-timer cafes rimming Djemaa are the best people-watching spots in town. Alcohol is pretty difficult to find around these parts.

The Alouani Bibi family have thrown open the doors of this old riad to display their eclectic and fascinating collection of Moroccan artefacts. From Berber costumes and jewellery to minbars (mosque pulpits) and Roman amphorae, the exhibits (mostly labelled in English and French) cover the arc of Moroccan history and culture. The rooftop cafe is a tranquil spot amid the souq hustle.