Some 20km from Chefchaouen on the road to Oued Laou, Le Caiat is a charming mountain refuge. The Portuguese owner is a keen environmentalist and works with local Moroccans arranging treks between villages in the Talassemtane National Park. Trails of two hours to two days lead to cooling cascades and monkeys, rock pools and the rare black pine. There is a range of accommodation and a restaurant with breathtaking views across the valleys.
Call ahead if you're visiting just for a meal (around Dh100).