Fez is the artisanal capital of Morocco. The choice of crafts is wide, quality is high, and prices are competitive, so take your time to shop around. As usual, it’s best to seek out the little shops off the main tourist routes (principally Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghira in the medina).
For leather, the area around the tanneries, unsurprisingly, has the highest quality and best selection of goods – note that elsewhere in the medina there are some unscrupulous shops selling cheap imitation leather goods and trying to pass them off as the real deal.
In the medina, there are many well-restored riads and funduqs (ancient inns used by caravans) that have been converted into carpet showrooms. While they certainly offer a great opportunity to sit with a mint tea in spectacular surroundings and look at some fabulous rugs, the hard sell is like no other place in Morocco. You can pick up some wonderful pieces, but also pay over the odds for factory-made rubbish.
Blue-and-white Fassi pottery is highly prized and everywhere in the medina. Head to Art Naji for the highest quality pieces and to see the fascinating production process from start to finish.