Dar Kamal Chaoui

Top choice guesthouse in Bhalil

Kamal Chaoui offers very comfortable accommodation in a traditional village house, and Naima cooks delicious dinners (Dh180). Decorated in local Berber style, it has a relaxing roof terrace with sweeping views. Kamal strives for a home-away-from-home atmosphere, and he and Naima join guests at mealtimes. In winter, the house is heated via an ingenious wood-fire system to keep things toasty.

Kamal, who speaks excellent English, French and German, is a pillar of the local community and a mine of information on the area. He can arrange mountain excursions – sometimes including lunch with Naima's Berber family – or a village tour with a visit to Bhalil's troglodyte caves for tea with the inhabitants (Dh275 per person). Naima also runs cooking classes (Dh330 per person). Money from the tours is funnelled back into the community, helping to clean up the streets and improve conditions for villagers.