If you’re heading to the desert, Aït Benhaddou is a worthy detour for a tasty lunch and a stroll through the narrow lanes. From the Hôtel la Kasbah, head down past the souvenir stalls to the ksar across the parched Oued Ounilla. But where are all the people? The few remaining residents make a few dirham selling souvenirs, carpets and other wares through former homes. One family also operates a small one-room 'museum' (Dh10), with a dusty collection of old door latches, swords, baskets and satchels (plus a vintage record player). Wind your way through winding lanes up to a ruined agadir with magnificent views of the surrounding palmeraie and unforgiving hammada.