Rožaje (Рожаје) is Montenegro’s most easterly town, nestled within the mountainous folds bordering Serbia and Kosovo. Almost 95% of its population are Muslim, and the song of muezzins can be heard echoing from its minarets at prayer times. It’s fascinating to sit by the main square and watch the evening promenade. While this social ritual is common to every town in Montenegro, here you’ll spot plenty of men strolling together arm in arm and some women wearing hijabs (head coverings).
With a backdrop of rocky cliffs and plenty of old wooden houses achieving a look bordering on designer decrepitude, Rožaje could be very pretty indeed. The main thing preventing that happening is the scandalous state of the Ibar River, which seems to be used as the main waste disposal. Plastic bags full of household refuse line its banks as it gurgles through town.