Three marked hiking paths start from Trg Borca and head into the Bjelasica Mountains. From the ski centre there’s a 16km, five-hour loop route through forest to Mt Ključ (1973m) and on to Eco Katun Vranjak before heading back. If you’re staying at the katun (traditional shepherd's mountain hut) you can take another scenic trail that knocks off Zekova Glava (2117m) and passes Lake Pešić (Pešićko jezero), skirting beneath Bjelasica’s highest peak. On the loop back it visits the spring that is the source of the Biogradska River before heading up Troglava (2072m). The 16km path is easy and well marked and should take less than five hours. For detailed descriptions and maps of both trails, pick up a copy of the Mountains of Bjelasica booklet available at either of the tourist offices.

A 93km mountain-biking route runs through remote countryside from Podgorica to Kolašin. There are plenty of places in Kolašin to hire bikes, so you could pick one up here, catch the train to Podgorica and cycle back over a few days.

Feature: The Bjelasica Massif

The Bjelasica massif dominates northeastern Montenegro with 10 grand peaks higher than 2000m. The unfortunately named Crna Glava (Black Head) is the highest at 2139m.

Any preconception you may have of Montenegro’s mountains as grey and barren will be shattered as the snows recede and reveal virgin forest (within the protected environs of Biogradska Gora National Park) and meadows teeming with wildflowers. In the higher pastures you’ll find katuns, round thatched structures that have been used for centuries by seminomadic shepherds when they bring their flocks here in summer. It’s a much more forgiving environment than the Orjen, Lovćen or Durmitor ranges, and therefore easier to explore.

Trails are accessed from the towns that encircle the mountain: Kolašin, Mojkovac, Bijelo Polje, Berane and Andrijevica. The best times for hiking are at the end of summer and in autumn when the forests are a mash of colours. Be prepared for sudden drops in temperature and storms. Local tourist offices should be able to provide you with maps, information, advice, and contacts for guides. Otherwise, talk to one of the agencies specialising in adventure holidays. The excellent website www.northernexposure.me has loads of useful information on year-round activities in and around the Bjelasica region.