The wonderfully named Ajijic (ah-hee-heek) is an outpost of North American retirees and by far the most sophisticated and energetic of the towns that line the north shore of Lago de Chapala. While the gringos may have put Ajijic on the map by opening boutiques, galleries and restaurants galore, much of the town retains its charming, colonial-era vibe, with cobblestone lanes and quiet streets of boldly painted...
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