La Biznaga

Oaxacan in Oaxaca City

Locals and visitors alike jam the large colonial courtyard for well-rendered nouveau-Oaxacan fusion dishes. The choices are chalked on blackboards: you might start with the sopa del establo (a creamy Roquefort and chipotle chili soup), follow up with turkey breast in a blackberry mole negro, and finish with the delectable chocolate mousse and guava.

For lighter appetites and budgets, there are baguettes, quesadillas and tostadas. La Biznaga has a great bar too, including draft microbrew beer and fine mezcal. It's billed as 'very slow food' (referencing the Italian-founded Slow Food movement), so expect a wait.