All the restaurants around Plaza de Armas are excellent for eavesdropping and people-watching, but some come unstuck with the food. Not Onix, locally famous for its taste-challenging menu that includes such eccentricities as scorpion served with cream cheese, and crocodile.

Less traditional than other city-center abodes, the Onix also turns heads with its seating (check out the seriously avant-garde chairs), perfectly balanced margaritas and hugely varied live music. Service is sharp.